These little scraps of fabric can unlock the history of a piece, help pinpoint its era, and even give you a glimpse into the craftsmanship behind it.
That’s, of course, only if you know what to look for *wink*.
In this vintage clothing labels guide, we’ll go over everything you need to know about vintage tags, from brand labels and union stamps to fabric content, rare vintage clothing markers, and care instructions. Whether you’re trying to authenticate a groovy 70s jumpsuit or figure out if that “Made in U.S.A.” tag is legit, we’ve got you covered.
So, let’s start from the basics.
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Contents: Ultimate Vintage Clothing Labels Guide
What Are Vintage Tags and Why Are They Important?
You all know that vintage clothing isn’t just “old clothes.” For us, serial thrifters, it’s basically a portal to a different time, with each piece carrying a story woven into its threads. Garments that are at least 20 years old typically qualify as vintage, and one of the best ways to identify them is through their tags.
But not all tags are created equal! Knowing how to read vintage tags can help you unlock their secrets and determine whether you’ve struck thrifting gold.
To put it simply, tags are the ultimate cheat sheet for authenticating vintage fashion. They reveal vital clues about the origin, era, and authenticity of a piece. A glance can tell you whether the garment came from the 70s or is a modern reproduction. Tags like union labels in vintage clothing, for example, can pinpoint whether a piece was crafted by skilled American union workers during specific decades.
They will show you:
- Authenticity: Spotting authentic vintage labels is the easiest way to separate true vintage garments from cleverly made modern replicas.
- Era Identification: Tags often reflect the branding trends, materials, and sizing systems of their time. Understanding vintage brand logos, changes in size tags in vintage clothing, or the materials listed on fiber content tags vintage can help you piece together a garment’s history.
- Material Insights: Tags such as care tags or fabric labels are treasure troves of information. Decoding fabric tags in clothing lets you understand the evolution of textiles—whether it’s a wool sweater from the 50s or the introduction of polyester in the 70s.
- Thrifting Success: For anyone aiming to perfect their vintage fashion thrift guide, learning how to date clothing by tags is a must-have skill.
Know that you know all the basics, let’s flip it over, check the label, and let the tag do the talking!
The Different Types of Tags Found in Vintage Clothing
TL;DR
- Brand Tags: Reflect the era’s aesthetic. Vintage logos evolve over time, helping identify true vintage pieces.
- American Vintage Union Tags: Found on clothing made between 1885-1976, union tags, especially ILGWU labels, authenticate vintage items and help date them. Look for the AFL-CIO logo to date garments post-1963.
- Care Tags: Introduced in the 1960s, these tags list cleaning instructions and help date a garment. Symbols and multi-language tags point to post-70s items, while simpler care labels indicate earlier decades.
- Size Tags: Vintage size tags often use vague descriptors (Small, Medium) or old-school measurements (inches). They are typically smaller than modern sizes, helping pinpoint an item’s era.
- Fabric Content Tags: Natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk) were common before synthetics like polyester emerged in the 1920s. Checking for fabric types helps confirm the garment’s vintage period and authenticity.
Brand Tags
Brand tags display the brand name or logo, and their design often reflects the era’s aesthetic, making them one of the best tools for authenticating vintage fashion.
It’s no secret that brand logos and tags have undergone changes that mirror shifts in design trends.
For instance, Levi’s tags have transitioned from simple serif fonts in their early days to the iconic red tab we recognize today.
Similarly, vintage Ralph Lauren tags are often cleaner and more minimalist compared to their modern counterparts. Studying the evolution of vintage brand logos can help determine whether a garment is truly vintage or a retro-inspired piece.
American Vintage Union Tags
Union tags are a hallmark of American-made garments, particularly those produced between 1885 and 1976. These tags indicate that the clothing was crafted by union workers, often under better labor standards than non-union items.
The International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU) is the most commonly seen union label in vintage clothing. Their designs evolved from ornate, multi-color tags in the 1920s and 30s to simpler graphics by the 60s and 70s.
Recognizing American vintage union tags not only helps date a piece but also connects it to an important chapter in labor history. If you spot an ILGWU tag with the AFL-CIO logo, for example, it likely dates from 1963 onward. These details make union tags a valuable tool for authenticating vintage fashion.
Care Tags on Vintage Clothing
Care tags are an innovation of the modern era, and thus, they became a standard feature after the 1960s when garment labeling laws were introduced. Before this, cleaning instructions were rarely included on clothing. Early care tags often featured minimal text, such as “Dry Clean Only,” while later ones expanded to include symbols and instructions in multiple languages. Analyzing the style and content of care tag identification can help pinpoint the period of a garment.
For example, a tag advising “Hand Wash Cold” on a delicate blouse may indicate a mid-20th-century origin, while more detailed symbols suggest a post-70s piece.
Size Tags
Size tags offer another clue in dating vintage clothing. Modern sizing standards have shifted dramatically over the decades, with sizes becoming more inclusive and standardized. In contrast, size tags in vintage clothing often relied on single-digit numbers or vague descriptors like “Small” or “Medium.” Some mid-century garments even included measurements in inches instead of numeric sizes. Understanding how to read vintage tags like these can save you so much movie, especially since vintage sizes are often smaller than their modern counterparts.
Fabric Content Tags
Fabric content tags reveal what materials were used in the garment, so they are very helpful in determining its authenticity. Natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk dominated early 20th-century fashion, while synthetic materials like rayon emerged in the 1920s, and polyester gained popularity in the 70s.
Tags listing “100% Cotton” or simply “Silk” suggest an earlier era, while blends like polyester-spandex hint at later decades. Decoding fabric tags in clothing not only helps determine the garment’s vintage status but also gives us insight into the technological advances of the time.
Clues for Dating Vintage Clothing Using Tags & Labels
I’ll share my tried and trusted tips and tricks on how to read vintage tags and, most importantly, how to date clothing by tags. Granted, it might take some practice, but the more clothes you examine, the less time you’ll need to pick up the clues.
How To Date Clothing By Fonts And Designs On Tags
Typography on vintage tags is one of the most telling clues for identifying the era of a garment. Over time, fonts and tag designs evolved alongside cultural and technological trends.
- Early to Mid-20th Century: Tags from the 1920s to 1940s often featured hand-drawn or serif fonts, with an emphasis on ornate and elegant designs. These tags reflected the craftsmanship and sophistication of the era.
- 1950s to 1970s: By mid-century, tags began incorporating sleeker, more modern fonts. The 70s introduced bold, blocky typography that aligned with the decade’s love for clean lines and simplicity.
- 1980s to 1990s: As branding became more prominent, tags featured larger, more prominent logos, often with bright colors or bold designs that mirrored the loud aesthetics of the time.
Details like serif fonts or retro-inspired logos can confirm whether a garment is authentically vintage or a contemporary piece mimicking older styles.
Country of Origin Labels
Country-of-origin labels are a significant clue in how to date clothing by tags, as manufacturing laws and global trade have shaped their inclusion on garments over time.
- Pre-1960s: Tags rarely included country-of-origin information unless the garment was imported. When they did, the phrasing was often more descriptive, such as “Made in England” or “Handcrafted in Italy.”
- Post-1960s: By the mid-20th century, country-of-origin laws became more stringent. In the U.S., the Federal Trade Commission required clear “Made in U.S.A.” labels for domestically produced garments.
- Globalization Effects: By the 1980s and 1990s, the rise of global manufacturing led to labels like “Made in China” or “Assembled in Mexico.” Vintage pieces with “Made in Hong Kong” or “Made in Japan” tags are often from the 60s or 70s when these regions were major garment producers.
Material Innovations
The materials used in a garment—and how they’re described on tags—can often pinpoint a specific time period. Fiber content tags vintage clothing enthusiasts rely on provide a clear timeline of textile innovation.
- Early 1900s: Natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk were dominant. Tags were minimal, often just stating “Cotton” or “Wool.”
- 1920s to 1940s: Rayon, the first synthetic fiber, became popular and was often labeled as “Artificial Silk.”
- 1950s to 1970s: Synthetic materials like nylon and polyester skyrocketed in popularity. Polyester blends dominated tags by the 70s, reflecting the shift toward wrinkle-resistant, easy-care fabrics.
- 1980s to 1990s: Tags from this period began listing blends (e.g., “Polyester 65%, Cotton 35%”) and included detailed instructions for care.
Manufacturer Numbers
Manufacturer numbers, or RN (Registered Numbers) and WPL (Wool Product Labeling) codes, are an underrated yet highly reliable tool for dating vintage clothing.
- What They Are: RN numbers were introduced in 1952 in the U.S., while WPL numbers appeared in the 1940s and were discontinued in 1959. These codes can identify the company that manufactured the garment, providing another layer of authenticity.
- How to Use Them: A lower RN number typically indicates an earlier production date. Tools like online RN lookup databases can help cross-reference these numbers to date and authenticate garments.
Know that you know how to read how to read vintage tags, let’s see how we can spot fake vintage too!
How to Spot Fake Vintage Clothes and Misleading Tags
Sadly, with the rising popularity of vintage clothing, modern reproductions, and misleading tags are everywhere, and it can be tricky to tell the difference between a true vintage gem and a cleverly crafted fake. Heck, even Shein has its own “vintage” category on the website.
Let’s talk about the telltale signs of reproduction tags, how retro-inspired clothing tries to fool us, and tips to ensure your finds are the real deal.
Signs of Reproduction Tags
Not every tag that looks old is actually vintage. Reproduction tags are designed to mimic the real thing but often miss the mark in subtle ways.
- Overly Clean Printing: Vintage tags were printed using older techniques, so they tend to have slight imperfections, faded ink, or uneven edges. If the tag looks too crisp, modern, or pristine, it’s a red flag.
- Wrong Fonts: Fonts and typography styles are like fashion trends—they evolve. Familiarize yourself with the fonts used by specific brands during different decades. Spotting the wrong font can save you from being duped.
- Suspicious Materials: Vintage tags were often made from woven fabric or coated paper. Modern reproductions sometimes use cheap, synthetic materials that don’t match the era’s production methods.
How Modern Retro-Style Clothing Mimics True Vintage
Retro is in, and brands know it. Many modern pieces are intentionally designed to resemble vintage garments, complete with faux-aged tags. While this is great for those who love the vintage look, it can create confusion for collectors.
- Mass-Produced Vintage-Inspired Lines: Fast fashion brands often release “vintage-inspired” collections that mimic the cuts, patterns, and even tags of authentic vintage clothing. These pieces are typically too uniform in style or sizing to be authentic.
- Faux Wear and Tear: Some modern tags are intentionally distressed to look old. While they may seem convincing, they often lack the nuanced wear-and-tear patterns found on genuine vintage tags.
- Country-of-Origin Mismatches: A tag claiming “Made in the U.S.A.” on a modern polyester garment is a clear contradiction, as true vintage polyester from the 70s was often imported or produced differently.
Tips to Verify the Authenticity of Vintage Clothes
If you suspect a piece might not be true vintage, don’t fret—there are several ways to verify its authenticity.
- Use what you’ve learned about reading vintage tags to scrutinize fonts, materials, and printing quality. Compare the tag to verified examples online to check for consistency.
- True vintage garments often feature older sewing techniques, such as pinked seams, metal zippers, or hand-sewn details. If the garment’s construction doesn’t match its purported era, it’s likely not authentic.
- If the tag includes an RN or WPL number, look it up to see when and where the company operated. This is an excellent resource for authenticating vintage sewing tags.
- Vintage fabrics, particularly natural fibers, feel different from modern blends. Learn to recognize the weight and texture of older materials, whether it’s heavy wool or silky rayon.
- Sometimes, something just feels “off.” If the piece is too perfect, too cheap, or too convenient, it might not be the vintage treasure it claims to be.
Our Favorite Tools and Resources for Vintage Tag Identification
Vintage Fashion Guild’s Label Resource Library
Best For: Researching vintage brand logos, dating fiber content tags vintage enthusiasts encounter, and confirming the authenticity of rare finds.
The Vintage Fashion Guild (VFG) Label Resource Library is a goldmine for anyone serious about vintage fashion. This free online database catalogs thousands of brand labels, complete with images and historical context. The library organizes labels by brand and decade, making it easy to compare a tag you’ve found to authentic examples. It also includes details about a brand’s history, like when it was founded and how its logo evolved.
Online Communities and Forums
Sometimes, the best way to solve a vintage mystery is to ask others who share your passion. Online communities are brimming with vintage experts ready to share their insights.
Subreddits like r/VintageFashion and r/ThriftStoreHauls are great places to post pictures of tags or garments and get feedback from the community.
Also, websites like Denim Hunters (for vintage denim) or Vintage Trends (for general vintage fashion) provide focused expertise and discussions.
And, last but not least, Facebook groups dedicated to thrifting and vintage clothing also have knowledgeable members who can help you identify American vintage union tags or brand evolution vintage logos.
Books and Guides on Vintage Fashion
For those who prefer analog resources, there are plenty of excellent books that delve into vintage fashion and tag identification.
- “Vintage Clothing & Accessories” by Emma Baxter-Wright: This book offers a detailed overview of vintage styles, including tips on identifying tags and fabrics.
- “The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping” by Melody Fortier: Perfect for beginners, this guide includes practical advice on spotting authentic vintage clothing, with a focus on tags and construction details.
- “Fashion: The Definitive Visual Guide” by DK Publishing: While not exclusively about vintage, this book provides a timeline of fashion trends and materials, helping you contextualize tags and styles.
Reading Vintage Clothing Tags Makes Thrifting More Fun
This was our full guide on how to read vintage tags and labels! Whether you’re on the hunt for a rare find or just want to make sure you’re purchasing something authentic, knowing how to identify vintage tags is key. From decoding fiber content tags vintage enthusiasts cherish to recognizing iconic vintage brand logos, every tag offers a clue about the era, origin, and craftsmanship of the piece.
If you are new to thrifting, we’d highly recommend using one of the many tips and tools we’ve covered in this vintage clothing labels guide, you’ll be equipped to make informed decisions when shopping for vintage clothing. And most importantly, watch out for fakes! Many modern brands and sellers try to mimic vintage pieces with reproduction tags. Be sure to look for signs like overly clean printing, wrong fonts, or fabric choices that don’t match the era. Always cross-check with reliable resources to confirm authenticity before making a purchase.
